Fun. Especially the visuals and Jennifer Jason Leigh's fast-talking reporter.
Also the first Coen Brothers film to be a long tribute to a mostly-forgotten era of pop culture, which is mostly a good thing, although those movies seem to be the ones that polarize the fans the most. I'm a movie buff, but I'm guessing more than half the references went over my head. With this category of Coen film, it's best not to expect much, and just sit back and enjoy the spectacle.